Oh no, you scraped some wallpaper off or you took a mirror off the wall or something and you ended up with this. We’re going to show you how to fix it with this nail polish. No, not nail polish, with this product right here. I’m going to show you that next. (upbeat music) Hey everybody, welcome back. It’s the guy with That Kilted Guy videos here on YouTube and on our website at thatkiltedguy.com soon to come here. Let’s say you ended up with some damage to your wall like this. This is some of the nasty stuff that happens when in this case they stripped a bunch of wallpaper off and you end up with this brown paper showing through. Once you get damage down to the brown paper, it’s a whole different ballgame. You can’t just mud over it and sand it like normal. The reason why is because this brown paper consists of multiple layers.

Sheetrock basically has an inner core of gypsum with an outer layer of white paper on the front and brownish paper on the back. And on that white paper right behind it is this brown paper. The white paper’s like one layer thick, but once you destroy that you get past that and down to the brown paper. This brown paper is it’s, I have no idea how many layers, but it’s multiple layers. It’s like really fine layers of paper stacked on top of each other.

So the problem is if we try to mud right over this and we haven’t prepped it like I’m going to show you how this layer of brown paper will often bubble up. It’ll turn loose because it’s not made to be wet with mud. The outer layer is. So it bubbles up. You scrape it off. There’s another brown layer. You can go through that multiple times. In the past when I was learning how to fix these, there was times I’d scrape it three or four, five times and it just kept showing brown paper again, so I started cutting it out to the point where I’d just peel it all the way down to the raw drywall, and then I could fix it, but that’s a lot of work.

There is an easier way. You might have heard of solutions like apply some primer to it, maybe some KILZ, oil-based KILZ. I’ve tried a lot of that stuff. And I’m going to show you a really effective way, I mean this product I’m going to show you works really, really well. But first, let’s go through the steps. We’re going to show you what the name of that product is a little bit later in the video. So you’ve reached this point where you’ve got damage to your wall, and now you’re ready to repair it. First thing I usually do is go ahead and sand it with some, like this is like 80 grit sandpaper, pretty aggressive. The reason I do that is it kind of takes off some of the little burs of paper that are sticking out. And in this case, I’m also knocking down the peaks on this texture, because we’re actually going to skim coat that, which means coating the whole thing, smoothing it out and then we’re like back to new drywall again.

And then we can apply a pretty texture. They had a really gaudy ugly texture on this house all over from the ’70s, and they sprayed some really ugly texture that we’re going to fix for ’em. So what we’re going to do is we’re going to skim coat this after we do these repairs, but we have to repair these first. So I sanded it. You can get by without that part, but the next part is often when it pulls enough to pull that outer layer of white paper off, you end up loosening up the edges around it.

And if you try and fix it now, that edge could end up bubbling on you and you get a little blister. Whenever you’re doing repairs, everything has to be solid. If you have loose paper sticking up like I’m peeling there, that’s very loose and if you try and coat over that, then think of it like this. If I put a piece of paper on the wall and I coat over it, is that paper going to stay stuck? No, it’s just going to fall off the wall.

You have to secure everything that’s loose or get rid of it. So what I recommend doing is take a utility knife and cut all around the loose area. Usually you just have to go like a quarter inch around it or so. So let’s just say you’re doing this. When you’ve got these that are this torn I usually just go ahead and cut ’em all. If they’re barely torn, you can get a get away without this usually. But just cut some shape around it. It doesn’t have to be anything scientific. Just get out past the loose stuff, and then take something like a utility or a mud knife, spackle knife, whatever you’ve got, and just peel it off basically.

We want to get under, usually start in here. And what that does by cutting it if you’re careful and you peel it, it just peels right back to the cut line and you haven’t loosened this if you didn’t scrape too far. If you just pull like so, it goes right back to there. Because we cut it, now that’s solid all the way around. So after we cut it, and some of these edges aren’t really super loose. So if they don’t want to peel up, don’t peel ’em up, they’re not loose. You’re just trying to get the parts that are loose. I’m going to go ahead and get all of that.

And if you see any bigger loose pieces of brown paper in here, go ahead and peel them up. But the little bitty, tiny, loose pieces we’ll leave them. Now I’m going to show you what that looks like peeled off and you’ll see the little close, and then in the close-up you’ll see the little peeled edges kind of sticking up. Okay, you saw the little loose paper here. So now what you want to do is get your magic product and who keeps handing me this? No, it’s not nail polish. The secret product name is called Pro, it’s Rx-35 or this PRO-999. It kind of has two names. Now where do you find this? It’s actually not everywhere. But in my area, Sherwin Williams carries it. In most areas you’ll find Sherwin Williams. If they don’t have it, try Home Depot. I have tried Lowe’s and I haven’t seen it there. You might find it also at True Value and places like that.

It’s a little-known product. And this product is made, as you can see in the label again, this product is made specifically for solving problems with loose paper, peeling and things like that. Now when you open this up don’t be surprised if you find, if you find that this looks basically like Elmer’s glue watered down. Now, I’m pretty sure it’s not. But it’s really a pretty thin product.

It looks white going on but as you’ll see it’s going to go on pretty much clear. You just put a solid coat on there and it has to dry at least an hour, but I’m going to tell you that that product is going to dry clear, you won’t even see it, but it’s going to work wonders. So what we do is let this dry at least an hour. I usually like to be safe and let it go about an hour and a half. Once that dries, we’re going to show you what to do, which is basically like fixing any other repair.

We’re just going to put a little mud over it. Let that dry, sand it down. And then after that I’m going to skim coat it. Okay, now you can see we’ve got the RX-35 on here. It’s thoroughly dried. Now, the next step is basically just to put a coat of mud on this. You could use, say, a six-inch knife or an eight-inch knife or whatever.

You could even use a ten or twelve. The main thing is you want to use a knife that’s at least an inch wider on each side. So you can see that that easily does that. You don’t want to use a knife that just barely covers it. That’s the amateur mistake I see a lot of you make is you try, I’m going to coat this one the wrong way. I mean in this case it would almost work, but I see you trying to coat it just wide enough to coat the thing. What you really want to do if you can see these repairs, you want to go a little bit past. The second coat we put on, we’d put even more. In this case, what I’m actually going to do is skim coat this whole wall. I’m just going to show you how to put a quick coat on this using my eight-inch knife.

I’m using 20-minute hot mud so that I can turn around real quickly and put another coat on it. So you can see, you just basically put it on about double width. You might want to feather the edges like so. And then just put a decent coat on like that. The repair up close, you can see this, but this barely shows through. You don’t want to do this. I see this kind of stuff a lot where people just gob it on and think, “I’ll just sand it down smooth.” You might get away with that, but you’re going to make yourself a whole lot more work, so why not put it on about that heavy.

Okay, then the next step is after this dries, all right, you could wait on this one. With hot mud you could just wait and when it sets up, put another coat on. But since we let this dry I’m going to show you a sanding step and a sanding technique since I’m going to skim coat all this. So what I recommend you sand it with is one of these sanding sponges. I like a medium because for one this hot mud, the fast-setting joint compound, is harder to sand than regular drywall mud.

Anyway, all you got to do to sand this, you don’t have to sand the heck out of it. I actually think I’ll go ahead and make a mistake on this first one and show you. Most people sand it just, they just kind of go crazy on it thinking, “I got to sand really smooth.” But what you’re usually ended up, what you usually end up doing is you bring this edge back out and that’s going to show again. Most of the time you want that to completely disappear for most textures. So let’s try sanding this one. This one’s not really quite ready. It’s still got an edge. But to sand it at this stage, we just go across it enough to knock off the high points. There’s some ripples. You want to sand those off. Then you might want to sand the edges lightly.

And with a sanding sponge tilt it like that. It just takes about that much. Now we’re actually ready to put our next coat of mud on. Let me get this one ready. Okay, that’s ready for a coat of mud. So let me get that mud and we’ll put a coat on and show you how that looks. Okay, now we basically want to do about what we did on the first coat. We want to coat it a little bit wider than the repair. If you haven’t figured out how to spread mud yet, watch some of my other videos, but here’s a quick primer. You load your knife up.

I often cut that off just so it doesn’t drip as easy. You load it up something like that. Set it on the wall to where if you pulled it away, it’d leave a little spot. So you put it on the wall and apply a decent amount of pressure. You see, I actually push. And as you go across the wall start leaning your knife over further and further until you can see I almost laid it down at the end.

Then I can say, “Well, that’s a little too thick.” So I could actually go over it again, carry some of that mud across. And that’s really about all you want right there. Now you want to feather these edges out, which it’s kind of hard to do with this texture in the background, but just bend your knife blade against the wall, just on the edges. And I’m going to try not to mess that one up. And then you want to go across it one final time. If you see these bubbles appearing, don’t really worry about ’em. But if you have very many, you’re probably putting it on pretty thick and you probably don’t need it that thick.

So again, where you want it just heavy enough to just barely cover the previous defects, and then we’re just going to leave it alone. I’m going to sand it again like we did here. This time we’re going to actually smooth the surface, center surface out, and feather out the edges even more, so that when we spray our texture it blends in. But I’ll go ahead and show you how we would sand that. Now let’s say again, we’ve sanded the middle. Now if we were ready to do the texture, you want to sand those edges a little bit more. What you want to do is tilt your sponge, so that you’re getting a feathered sanding. You don’t want to just lay it flat, because you can actually sand a groove in where right there it creates a groove from sanding flat like that. So just tilt it, light pressure. Go around the edges. And again, I can’t do that, because it goes up against that one. So you can watch my video on how to repair a small hole.

It gives you a better idea of this, but you basically want to keep coating this, lightly sanding it, coating it, lightly sanding until this defect that you want to go away goes away, because you may put it on too thin, you may sand it down too much, it may take you more than two coats. But normally, two coats would cover this. Feather out these edges. And hey it’s ready for texture. I hope that helps you out with the brown paper repair problem.

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