I’m going to show you how to install baseboards with rounded corners. All right here we have a pretty standard bedroom for our area as a couple bull-nosed corners the closet and just the rest of the inside corner walls.

So when I start with the baseboards, I like to start with the outside corners and get all those done and then do the rest of the walls.

We’re gonna be putting in this seven and a quarter inch base today. First what you’re gonna want to do is take your corners and just mark where they sit on the wall.

If it’s your first time, you might want to make a little test piece with a few inches on each side just to make sure you get the corner lined up right. I just pop them on there and mark them. Then you’ll have your marks where you can cut your straight pieces.

All right now you just take some pieces of base that are a little bit longer, then what you have to cut and you can make the marks. I use all zero cuts on these even the one going into the inside corner. I’ll show you how to do that in a minute but now you just put the base pieces on the wall and make your marks where you made the marks for the corners.

Pretty simple… all right leave this piece up against the wall, put your tape measure against it and run it through the other side. You’re gonna want to add an eighth of an inch to this measurement so this one I would do 41.

All right, take those pieces to the saw, make the zero cuts on the marks you made it against the outside corners and cut those to length.

Now the inside corner, that’s going to butt into those for the right side. Take a piece longer than what you need and do a 45-degree cut just like this. Then do a zero degree cut and cut up some of the excess part. We just want to take that all off not all the way to the end. Break that piece off and then we use an angle grinder with the sanding disc to take that remaining round part off. I’ll show you how to do this in more detail later.

I’m gonna do the inside walls.. but basically you’ll just take your tape measure put it on the end you just coped off the flat part and then mark it at 41. You’ll cut that at zero degrees and that piece will be ready to go. I make it a little bit longer and keep the finish longer so when you pop it in there the corner is nice and tight.

So now you take all those pieces back into the room and just kind of dry fit it on there. If anything is too long or too short re-cut it. It looks good to me.

Time to glue it up. So you take your TP tan glue, put it on one piece spray the activator on the other piece and hold them together and glue the whole assembly together before you nail it to the wall. I’ll do that all right now so you can check it out.

Just a side note here, I’m spraying this all over a furniture blanket. I put over the carpet and the activator has an acetone base. So if you were to get a ton of it on the carpet, it could discolor it or if you spray it on a lacquer finish, it will deactivate the lacquer really quick. So you got to be careful sometimes with this stuff.

We got the whole thing glued up. So now you can lay it up against the wall and see how it fits. It should fit great if you dry fit at first. We can get ready to put the inside corner in and those rounded corners are not done yet. I have an extra step at the end to get them nice and seamless.

All right, time for this inside corner piece. There’s a piece we coped. So all you have to do is gently put the coped end in first so you don’t break that little top piece off and snap it on in there.

Corner looks great! Now you can nail the whole thing up. All right here we go with our trusty 18 gauge Ryobi nail gun.

All right we got all the outside corners done and one inside corner, so now there’s just three walls left and the rest of the room. I’ll show you how to do that it’s real easy. When I do the inside walls, I want to make as many straight cuts as I can in with the least amount of coped pieces. So I’ll do the left and the right walls here with the straight cuts and then I’ll cope that back wall in.

This piece is really easy. I don’t think I have to show you on the saw but you just put your tape measure down against the end of the wall and mark where it’s gonna go before the door casing. And do the same thing on the other side and make some zero degree cuts. You bring those two pieces back in fit them. On the carpet, we push it down and nail it in so there’s no gaps on the bottom. And nail those two pieces so there’s just one piece left to do in here.

You’ll have two 0 degree cuts butting into that wall. So here’s the left side, and then you can see the right side. I’ll show you how we do this one. It’s very similar to the last inside cut we did. Take your tape measure and put it into the piece down there. Then this side, we’ll see what the tape comes in at and it looks like it’s about 122. So you can do 122 and 1/8. Remember to add an eighth of an inch.

Here we just repeat what we did on the first inside cut. You do a 45 degree bevel cut. Start with the right side and make your cut. Then you switch it back to zero degrees and cut off some of that excess. Break it off and take the rest off with the angle grinder.

All right, normally when I do this, I have fans where this camera is and they blow all the dust as I’m grinding it off and my saw has a vacuum attached to it. You don’t want to breathe this MDF… it’s nasty!

So you take your tape measure and put it on the end you just coped off on the flat part and then you’ll mark your measurement from inside the room. I flip the piece around. I’m used to doing that with crown molding.

If you have a double bevel saw, you can just set the bevel the other way. But I’m used to just flipping them around. Then you’ll do a 45-degree cut right on that mark you just made. So I set it up 45 on this one, and then you’ll do the same thing where you put it back to 0. Take some of that excess off and grind off the rest. That’s it.. this piece is ready to go up in the room and be installed.

All right, so you bring the piece into the room and just be careful with those corners when you set it in there. I’ll do the right side first here. Get that in and then I kind of put my hand in the middle of it my right hand and then with my left hand, I’ll bend this piece in and it’ll snap in. Because we made it an eighth of an inch longer than our measurement.

That’s how you do those corners so you don’t have to worry about the 90-degree corners being off at all. Every corner just looks nice and tight. It won’t ever come apart and crack later on. w

We have all the pieces installed in the whole room but it’s still not done. If you don’t want to be like a typical homeowner and just start painting this. You have to sand those corners all around.

The corners don’t really line up exactly so they have to be sanded. We use a Dewalt multi-tool with the sanding attachment 120 grit. You sand these until you can feel with your hand that it’s nice and even. If you feel any bump on one side, just keep sanding it with this multi-tool.

The top detail is kind of hard to get. You can take a little bit off and then I go back over that with the sandpaper in my hand. So there’s one corner left and we just do the same thing to this corner. Sand it out, feel it with our hands to see if it’s good. And once it’s nice and smooth, it’s ready to go. Once these are all sanded, you can clean up.

Fill the nail holes and do the caulking. A final coat of paint and this room is done!

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