So here’s today’s question: How do you paint a bathroom? Well, there’s no better way to learn than from a professional. So I’ve got an awesome surprise for you today. Chris Berry, The Idaho Painter, is going to show you all of his tips and tricks on how to paint a bathroom quickly, efficiently, and professionally. So I’m partnering with Chris on this video. You’re going to love it. He does awesome YouTube videos. You can check him out over on YouTube at the Idaho Painter. But let’s dive into his tutorial right now. This is Chris, The Idaho Painter. Glad to be here on the Home Repair Tutor to give you five tips and tricks to painting a bathroom to make it just like a professional painter did it.
So stay tuned for this video. So I’m here in this small bathroom right here. And painting a bathroom doesn’t have to be this really long, draw-out process where it takes a day or multiple days to do. A bathroom like this can easily be done in just a couple of hours. But one of the key elements to painting a bathroom and making it look like a professional painter did it is actually have tools that a professional painter would have. Now I’m going to give you a list of the tools and some of the items that you’re going to need to get this project done. So this is tip #1 when it comes to painting a bathroom, and that’s actually having a paintbrush and a paint roller that’s actually going to give you quality results. And if you’re trying to save money and go cheap on a paintbrush and a roller, you’re just not going to get those straight cut-in lines, you’re not going to get the quality finish on the walls, and it’s just going to take you a lot longer to apply the paint.
Typically when I’m painting interiors, I like using an interior brush that’s a 3-inch angled sash brush. I like a wider brush because I can paint a lot faster with it. A good quality brush is going to give you nice, crisp, clean cut-in lines. It’s going to hold a lot more paint, and you’re going to be able to go a lot farther.
So you’re going to paint a lot faster with it. The brush that I typically use on interiors when I’m painting interior walls and doing cut-ins, I like a Purdy brush. It’s called a ClearCut brush. And this is the actual brush I use. That brush is really good for doing cut-ins. It’s really good for doing the layouts on your walls and edges. Doesn’t leave a whole lot of roping. It’s an excellent brush. The next thing is your roller. You got to have a quality roller. And when I’m rolling the walls, I use a 3/8-inch nap—that’s the depth of the roller. So use a 3/8-inch nap, and I like the white woven rollers from Purdy. Now if you go cheap on a roller, the first thing that you’ll notice when you start rolling on the walls, it leaves a lint on the walls which just doesn’t look good.
The lint—that’s actually the fuzzy stuff on the rollers. So cheap rollers leave the lint on. Cheap rollers will have the tendency to splatter, so you’re going to get a lot more mess on your floors. Use a high quality roller and you’re going to get a lot less splatters or almost none. The rollers we use—I use a Purdy WhiteDove white woven roller. And that roller’s excellent. It hardly ever leaves any amount of splatters, and it also holds more paint and lays the paint out a lot better. And it doesn’t leave very much stippling. A cheap roller or cheap nap is going to stipple your walls really bad, and you’re not going to get that good quality finish. So tip #1 is buy a good quality paintbrush and a good quality roller. But now you got your tools all gathered together. Got to get your good quality paint for a bathroom, depending on the condition of your bathroom whether it has moisture issues or not. You definitely want to look into paint. Jeff is going to be doing a video on my channel of how to select the paint for a bathroom.
So if you want to come check out Jeff’s video on my channel, The Idaho Painter, you can also come check it out. Can’t wait to see his video on selecting bathroom paints. So tip #2, I got all my tools gathered together. Tip #1 was buy a good quality paintbrush, good quality roller. Tip #2 is buying a high quality tape. And the best tape that I’ve ever found for doing my cut-ins—around edges, around door jams, around my baseboards, all my trim—the best tape that I found is FrogTape.
You want to get a tape that the paint’s not going to bleed through to give you edges where the paint’s bleeding through on your trim. FrogTape is the very best. I’ve used every tape out there in the market. There’s nothing better than FrogTape. But I also use clear caulking along with my FrogTape which will actually give you just laser straight lines on all your trim—around your door jams, your baseboards, window trim, around stuff like your showers and bathtubs and stuff like that.
So tip #2 is get yourself FrogTape. I don’t use anything but just 1-inch FrogTape. I do get a lot of questions, too, about how you go about using the FrogTape and clear caulking. I do have a video that explains that in depth, too. It’s a really good video on how to use caulking and FrogTape to make laser straight lines on a wall, like if you’re painting the stripe or something like that. So you can check that out later, too. But we’re going to move on to tip #3 now.
So tip #3 is actually getting into the managing of this project and actually getting it done in two ours. And tip #3 is once you get all your masking done, you want to get a first coat on these walls so this first coat will begin drying. And that first coat, you don’t want it to be heavy like you’re trying to cover it in one go. Typically when we’re painting and rolling interior walls, we always figure on putting two coats. And our first coat is what we call a skim coat. So we’re going to roll on here a light coat on there enough to just get a nice good thin coat on the walls, and then that will dry in about 30 minutes.
So tip #4 is part of the next process. We’ve rolled our first coat on the walls, that’s tip #3. Get that first coat on there. A skim coat. Get that stuff on there. Nice and thin so it’ll dry fast. Turn on your fan; that will suck out some of the extra moisture in your bathroom that the paint is actually creating because the humidity is actually going to slow down the drying time. Crank up the temperature in your house. Get it up to about 75°. That will help it dry fast. But tip #4 is actually doing your ceiling cut-ins. Now I’m going to go around and do my ceiling cut-ins.
And I’m going to do them and try to do my ceiling cut-ins so they will cover in one coat. So I’m going to put them on there pretty heavy. I’m going to cut in and then I’m going to back roll it with my 4-inch roller that’s in my bucket. Get those all done. It’s a small bathroom, I could do the cut-ins in here in about 15 minutes, and then I’m going to move on to the next process. Now I’m going to move on to tip #5. This is the last tip, and this is doing your cut-ins and rolling your final coat.
So you’ve done your ceiling cut-ins now. And now we’re going to want to move down to doing cut-ins along all your trim, wherever your 1-inch tape is. You’re going to cut all that in and then roll your second coat over the top, overlapping those edges. So you’re keeping a wet edge. You’re going to roll all that, and then you’re going to pull off all your masking. So I’m going to run around, put my clear caulking on all my tape, then I’m going to cut my cut-ins in with my paint, and then I’m going to go back and roll the walls and fill in the walls. So the process is going to be: I’m going to run my clear caulking all around all my edges. That will only take about 5 minutes or less. Then I’m going to do my cut-ins with my brush and my roller around all these edges, which will probably take me about 10-15 minutes to do the cut-ins.
And then I’m going to begin rolling my second coat on my walls, and the second coat’s going to happen really fast in here. There’s not a lot of walls. It’ll probably take another 10 minutes. And then I’m going to just pull off all my tape. You want to make sure you pull off that tape before the paint or the caulking dries. The caulking’s going to dry slower than the paint because it’s underneath the paint, which is you’ll put a wet film over the top of the caulking. So then once you’ve rolled the final coat on the walls, you’re going to immediately go back, pull all that tape off, then let your walls dry, let all your cut-ins dry. Then you just go back typically on your cut-ins because you’re trying to do this all in one coat. You might have some blind spots. I just go back, do all those touch-ups on my cut-ins. You see the walls, there’s going to be—you have nothing more you’ll have to do the walls because you got two coats on the walls.
And your project’s all done. Check it out once it’s all done. Should look like a professional painter just did it. Once again, if that caulking process, what I’ve explained here, if it’s a little bit difficult or a little confusing, go check out my channel, The Idaho Painter. I do have a video explaining in depth this caulking and taping process and exactly how you go about doing it. But it’s a very important process if you really want those laser straight lines. If you’ve ever wondered how a painter got laser straight lines on all of this trim and stuff, that’s exactly one of the tips and tricks out there that a lot of Do-It-Yourselfers don’t know about. So there you have it. There’s five tips and tricks on painting a bathroom and getting that done in a reasonable amount of time. Shouldn’t take you a whole day.
If you’re a first timer, a bathroom like this, you can literally get done in less than a half a day. Should take you two to three hours.
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